To find Manganari from Kalamos beach we return to the intersection in the road after the monastery of Ayios Ioannis and turn left. The road begins to descend again and the landscape is still wild and full of rocks. To the south of Kalamos, there is a pretty little sandy bay. This is the bay of Papas. Further to the south, the road forks, with both branches leading to Manganari.
From high up on the road, you can appreciate the great length and width of this beach. There are a few scattered houses at either end which have rooms for rent. There are also two tavernas, one at each end of the beach, and about one hundred meters – the width of the beach – from the sea. Manganari can be said to have changed very little in many years now. It is visited by tourists every day in summer.
They get here in two coaches, or by rented car, or even by caique from the port. However, they quickly disappear into the endless beach and you can’t even see them. One sign that the beach is still unspoiled is the large flock of goats that comes along the sand twice a day before going up the little hill at the end of the beach.
A few low rocks just after the middle of the beach divide it into two. The second part is not straight, like the first, but has three little coves that make you think you’re on a different beach. The sea is everywhere limpid, blue, and very clean. A few little boats are drawn up onto the shore and a yacht rides at anchor off the bay. The sun is beginning to set and the hills around are assuming a soft pink hue. Manganari is peaceful, idyllic. We take the road of return. There is plenty of light because the horizon is open and the sea is still shining beneath the rays of the sun. We shall catch the sunset from on high, above Ayia Ekaterini. The suns sets between Los and Sikinos, leaving a broad gold line on the sea. Another panoramic vista. Another unforgettable Aegean sunset. Can you stop to enjoy it? We’re soon above the beach of Mylopotas. In the distance, on top of the hill, can be seen the lights of Chora. In the west, the sky is still a vivid violet color. Another beautiful day on Los is drawing to a close. A day. Because there’s also the night.